Bruce, an old friend of ours, once built a decompression chamber to use when collecting tropical fish from deeper than in 50 feet. Freshwater And Marine Aquarium Magazine published the article he wrote about it in June, 1988 (Volume 11, Number 6). That magazine is no longer with us, and the information is not available online. Although he no longer collects fish, Bruce claims that based on more recent conversations he’s had and his online research, he hasn’t found anything like it (or better) since. We offered to post it for him here.
This post is adapted from that article. The original illustrations were created by the magazine staff based on the drawings Bruce sent with the article. We’ve helped him enhance them a bit where he thought appropriate. He also sent new photos of whatever equipment he could still find. At our suggestion, he even added more information on how to use this equipment and made other editorial changes. Consequently, this article is much better than the original. The following is in his voice and perspective. The prices mentioned herein are still in 1988 dollars. [Based on the CPI of 116 for 1988 and 325 for 2026, expect current prices to be about three times as much.]
Why a Chamber?
Few fish can be collected from deeper than fifty feet without some kind of decompression. Some people tie their collection bucket to the anchor line and bring it up a little at a time. This technique has three disadvantages.
- First, you can’t see the fish, and won’t know until it’s too late whether they are going to make it.
- Second, some of the fish I’ve caught need a couple of days to decompress.
- Third, if it’s not your boat, you could have trouble convincing the skipper to stick around, even for a much shorter time. And even if it is your boat, who wants to bounce around at anchor for so long?
Some people claim to “needle” their fish. Apparently, they bring the fish straight up. Then they stick a needle into its air bladder to release the gases. We don’t like that idea.
My Solution
I have the perfect decompression chamber. It is easy to build, cost me less than fifty dollars, and is even easier to use. We use it as the collection bucket. At the end of the dive I seal it and bring it straight to the surface. Once there I can raise or lower the depth/pressure at will, and can even bubble air through at any pressure/depth. If you build a second chamber, you can use it to make water changes and even feed the decompressing fish (in the first chamber) as needed.
I got a few of my ideas from talking with experienced members of the Florida Marine Aquarium Society, who have each collected deep water fish here in Miami. The rest is a result of my own experimentation. I was constantly refining some of my techniques, especially the decompression times for different fish at different depths. I’ll discuss my preliminary findings at the end of this article. But first I’ll tell you how to build this chamber, and then describe how to use it.
Description

We made the chamber from a five-gallon stainless steel cola syrup canister — the kind that you find under the tap of your finer soda concessions everywhere. The chamber has two ports on top for passing gasses and/or liquids. One is attached to a metal tube that feeds off of the bottom of the chamber and the other feeds right from the top of the chamber. The quick-disconnect fittings for the two ports look alike, but are not interchangeable. As you can see in Figure 2, the one leading to the bottom of the tank has 3 nubs. The other fitting has 2 nubs.


In the original application (dispensing cola syrup), the tank was pressurized by inserting a gas (CO2 or air?) into the top of the tank, which would force liquid out from the bottom of the tank. When we circulate air in our application, we put it in through the bottom tube and remove it from the top. But when we do a water change, air enters from the top and water leaves from the bottom. So instead of referring to the ports as “in” and “out”, we will arbitrarily call the one with three nubs and the long tube “red”. We will call the other one, with two nubs and no tube, “green”. This is not because they actually come in those colors, but to match my illustrations.
In the decompression chamber, you connect the green side to your buoyancy compensator (BC) inflator hose. The other side can be hooked to a pressure gauge. On the inside of the chamber is a large tube around the opening which traps air up around the shoulders of the tank. This trapped air is crucial to maintaining pressure in the chamber and also keeps the buoyancy constant. The final innovation is a clear plexiglass lid so that you can see into the chamber.
Details
The Container
First, the canister. I got mine for about $20.00 (used) from a local wine and brew shop. These chambers hold up to 130 psi pressure, which is equivalent to over 280 ft. depth. The quick disconnect fittings that go on the two ports cost me about $15.00 more.
The Gas Input Plumbing
The essential pieces to the “green” side assembly (connecting to the long internal tube), as shown in on the left side of Figure 1 are:
- the fitting that connects to your particular BC inflator hose (which you can get at your local dive shop for roughly $4.00), which then it goes to
- a simple brass valve, which then goes to
- your quick-connect fitting.

These three pieces are linked by rubber fuel line hose and stainless steel hose clamps, and whatever adapters are necessary. You can get these pieces, except as noted, at any well-stocked hardware store for less than $2.00 a piece. Note how this assembly attaches to the three-nub port. If your “green” port connects to a flexible hose inside, instead of a rigid pipe going to the bottom of the tank, then you can attach a cheap air wand or long air stone on the end for an added touch (as long as it’s not the fragile kind).
“Red” Gas Outflow Plumbing
On our gas outflow assembly, connected to the “red” port, we go from
- the quick-disconnect fitting to
- a T-fitting for the pressure gauge and then to
- (some sort of variable over-pressure relief valve (optional and untested), and then)
- another valve.
This looks like the photo in Figure 10, but without the BC connector. Again, these pieces are connected by adapters, hose, and clamps. On all threaded connections I used Teflon tape.
Between the pressure gauge and the valve, I thought it would be cool to have some sort of variable over-pressure relief valve so that it would be easier to aerate the chamber, but I have never actually used or really needed such a device.
My pressure gauge only reads up to 60 psi (or about 135 ft.) and cost me about $12.00 at a boat hardware shop. It does not have to be waterproof since you leave it on the boat during your dive. And no matter how many decompression chambers you build, you will only need one set of these “green” and “red” side assemblies.
The Shoulder Tube
Now for the hard part — fitting the tube on the inside of the chamber. I used a large (half gallon) Rubber Maid pitcher (suggested retail $1 .99). Cut off the top inch to get rid of the spout, and cut off the bottom, and the handle so that you have an almost perfect cylinder about 4″ in diameter and 6″ or 7″ long. Whatever you use must be just flexible enough to fold in half and cram down the entrance hole, after which it returns to its original shape and is fairly rigid.
Glue this tube to the roof of the container with silicone sealant (just like you used on your aquariums). With the tube back in working shape and resting on the bottom of the container, my technique was to tie one end of a long string (3′ or 4′) to the middle of a 6″ stick. Then apply the silicone sealant to the roof of the container (apply liberally). Drop the stick through the tube and hoist it into position. Tie the string snugly to some higher object until the sealant dries.

The Lid
For the lid you could use the one that comes with the container (shown in Figure 3), but then you couldn’t inspect your fish. I made a lid out of plexiglass. These lids seal from the inside (hench the elliptical shape instead of circular). They use interior gas pressure to maintain the seal. Use the standard lid as a pattern. Use a router to get the lip for the O-ring. I use the O-ring from the original lid (lubricate this O-ring sparingly with silicone grease periodically, as you would on your underwater cameras).

My lid is about 5/8″ thick with a contoured lip that gets thinner than 3/16″ along the bottom. I used super glue to attach a couple of small pieces of plexiglass to hold the lid in place until it seals (see Figure 6). My simple wood handle is held on by a couple of suction cups (with a diameter of more than one inch) instead of being permanently attached. That way you can remove it when not needed. Otherwise it would obstruct your view.

As noted in Figure 6 (and shown in Figure 7), the pivot hole on the movable lid arm was drilled off-center to restrict its range of motion. Another way to do that would be to just glue a plexiglass stop next to it when it is in its straight-out position. This restriction is for convenience, but not absolutely necessary.
Also keep in mind that these two acrylic add-ons are only needed until you raise far enough off the bottom for the internal pressure difference to seal the lid in place. But at the end of your dive when you are low on air and have captured some real nice (meaning rare and exotic) specimens, having your lid fall into the chamber before you get it sealed tends to really increase your anxiety level. Or so they tell me. 😉
The Entrance Net
As I mentioned earlier, we use our decompression chamber as a collecting bucket. My wife is the ace fish collector (sometimes I help herd the fish, but mostly I’m just the caddie). Anyway, she made a double-compartment net out of plastic window screen and Velcro (see Figures 1 and 8), which we attach to a Velcro ring around the outside of the mouth of the decompression chamber (see Figure 5).

As shown in Figure 8, the Velcro openings to each compartment come with a tab on each side to help pull them open. On one of those tabs, there is a lanyard to tie the net to the chamber before your dive.
The outer (top) opening is just wide enough to go around my wife’s collecting net. We transfer the fish from the collecting net to the decompression chamber in two stages, so that the fish already in the chamber don’t escape. Remove the net from the tank Velcro (but keep it tied to the decompression chamber) at the end of the dive when no longer needed.

Collecting Net
This isn’t a part of the decompression chamber, but since we mention it in this article, it may have aroused your curiosity.
By now you probably realize that those “slurp guns” are worthless. My wife built this net. The sides are plastic. The bottom is plastic window screening (like the one on the decompression chamber). All of this goes around a 1/4” aluminum rod. The ends of this rod fit into shallow grooves (wide enough for the rod, but less than 1/4” deep) cut for this purpose along opposite sides of one end of a 7/8” wooden dowel. They are secured by three stainless steel hose clamps. A wrist strap is tied to the other end of the dowel. She has attached her galvanized probing rod (maybe a little thicker than 1/16” diameter) by carving a short groove under the third hose clamp for one end, and a ring of bungee cord around the dowel at the other end.
Using this net, she generally catches only one fish at a time. When they go in the net, she collapses it at the mouth. Then we quickly transfer it to her collecting bucket or decompression chamber. Her collecting bucket is just a one-to-three gallon plastic bucket with the two-compartment entrance net (similar to Figure 8) permanently attached.
This collecting net works well on everything except for Blackcap Basslets (Gramma melacara). She designed a special collecting net for them, but that is well beyond the scope of this article.
Another method to collect fish would be to put your catch in tote tubes small enough to fit into the chamber (with numerous small holes to allow water circulation). This technique could also hamper your inspections later. But how you catch the fish is your problem.
Pressure↔Depth Conversion Table (Optional)
Figure 9: A Pressure/Depth Conversion Chart.
We discuss the making and displaying of this chart in the “Testing” Section below.

Testing
Before actually using this chamber, you will test it thoroughly at home. Put it in a trash can and fill both the can and the chamber with water (except for the air in the shoulders of the chamber). Add weight until the chamber is neutral. It should take less than a couple of pounds. Later you can bolt that weight to the rubber boot on the bottom of your chamber. Remember that salt water is heavier than fresh, so a chamber that is neutral in fresh water will require about 5 ounces more to be neutral in the ocean. If the chamber sinks before you add any weight then your shoulder tube wasn’t long enough.
The next test is the pressure test. Put on the lid and add air slowly from your BC inflator hose. Check for leaks in the plumbing. If you have a clear lid you can also calibrate your pressure gauge by placing your depth gauge in the chamber and comparing the two gauges at different pressure levels. I have my pressure/depth conversion chart (see Figure 9) taped to the side of the chamber (as shown in Figure 1). If you don’t have a clear lid you can make the chart by remembering that every 33 ft. of depth corresponds to 14.7 psi (with the surface being 0 psi, not 14.7).
Using the Chamber
On the Dive
Now to use this contraption. I’ll talk you through a typical dive. Before you suit up, connect the gas inflow assembly to the chamber’s green port. Also tie it and the net to the chamber. Put the lid in your BC pocket or your goody bag. Put the gas outflow assembly in the cabin of the boat where it can stay dry.
The Descent
When you enter the water, let the chamber fill up with water. Keep it as upright as possible so that air gets trapped in the shoulders. The chamber should be neutrally buoyant (or else make a mental note to adjust the weights before your next dive trip). As you descend the anchor line, the chamber will get a little heavier as the air inside gets compressed.
When you reach the bottom, attach your entrance net to the chamber by mating the Velcro (leaving it tied to the chamber). Remove your inflator hose from your BC and connect it to the chamber. Turn the valve to blow air into the chamber. When it is full it will again be neutrally buoyant and bubbles will come pouring out the mouth of the chamber. Turn off the valve and return the hose to your BC. You shouldn’t have to play with it again for the rest of the dive. I often disconnect the quick-connect inflow assembly (but keep it tied to the chamber). Minor fluctuations in pressure during the remainder of the dive are inconsequential.
Collecting Fish
One of the benefits of the shoulder air and the base weights is that the chamber is very stable. You should be able to rest it atop a pinnacle and have it remain upright and in place (under conditions of moderate currents). You may add fish to the chamber whenever you get the chance.
The Ascent
At the end of the dive, I put the lid in place by carefully taking it through the net, and hold it in place as I start my ascent. After rising only a foot or two, the pressure inside the chamber will hold the lid in place. I remove the net (still tied to the chamber). The chamber will remain neutrally buoyant during the ascent.
On the Surface
Keep the chamber out of direct sunlight; you don’t want to heat the water too much. You may start to decompress the fish as soon as you get your diving gear off.
To Raise the Fish
To decompress the fish, attach the gas outflow connector (make sure the valve is closed) to the “red” port. Open the valve and slowly let air out until you reach the desired pressure. Close the valve and remove the connector. Inspect the fish. You usually get a more useful view of the fish by lying the chamber on its side. Of course, you need to bring it upright again before conducting other operations.
Lowering the Fish (Increasing Pressure)
If a fish appears distressed (symptoms are discussed below), you may need to increase the pressure in the chamber. Connect the gas inflow assembly to the “green” port and a SCUBA tank to that assembly. Add air slowly (by controlling with the valve) until you reach your desired depth.
Aerating the Fish
Aerating the fish is just a matter of connecting both assemblies to their respective ports at the same time and opening both valves so that they are balanced. The gas inflow assembly may be connected to either a SCUBA tank or oxygen bottle. I open the gas outflow valve first, but put my thumb over the hole. Then I open the other valve slowly, keeping a sharp eye on that pressure gauge. After a little practice, you’ll see its not that tough. Of course here is where that over-pressure relief valve might come in handy.
Surprisingly, you don’t need to bubble the fish as often as one might think. I’ve left fish in the chamber at least a day and a half without aerating. Fish left in a bucket at sea level for that time would be long dead. Apparently, the 20% oxygen from your SCUBA tank dissolves into the water much better at four atmospheres. Some fish suck up oxygen faster than others. Pygmy angels (Centropyge argi) and Jack-knives (Equetus lanceolatus) will not last as long as other fish. I usually don’t bubble the chamber until I reach twenty feet. Then I use pure oxygen (from an emergency oxygen unit I carry on the boat) every four to eight hours. Air from your SCUBA tank will also work, but more frequently.
Making a Water Change
As mentioned near the top of this article, this operation will require two chambers. You will also need three new fittings.
The New Gear

- The new inflow assembly, like your first one, starts with a BC connector and a valve. Downstream of the valve is a pressure gauge, similar to the one on your first outflow connector. (In fact, you could just add a BC connector to your existing outflow connector when needed.) Then it terminates with a quick-disconnect fitting which attaches to what we’ve been calling the “red” (two-nub, no tube) port – the opposite of the connector on your original chamber (compare Figure 1 to Figure 11).
- The connector between the two chambers is an assembly with a “green” port quick-connect fitting on one end and a “red” port quick-connect fitting on the other end. Between them is only another valve.
- The third assembly, your new outtake connector, has only the “green” port quick-connect fitting (the one that attaches to the three-nub port that has the long tube) at one end, with a valve at the other end. Again, check Figure 11.

How it’s Done
Add good water to the spare chamber. Before connecting the two chambers, use your original outtake assembly to record the current pressure in the fish chamber. Then remove the pressure gauge. Connect the two chambers with that new chamber-connect fitting, making sure the connecting valve is closed. Bring the spare chamber’s pressure up to match that of the first chamber (the one with the fish) with your new inflow assembly. Close that “Intake” valve. Connect the new outtake assembly to the “green” port of the chamber with the fish (after making sure its valve is closed). Slowly open the connecting valve all the way to equalize pressure between the chambers. Now you can add water to this system in a manner similar to the one used to aerate a single chamber under pressure – by slowly pumping air into the clean-water chamber while removing water from the fish chamber. Close intake and outtake valves regularly to check and maintain pressure. And be sure to finish before the clean water runs out.
Feeding Your Fish
Start as you would for making a water change. But after putting clean water in the spare chamber, add some brine shrimp, similar small live food, or even flake food to the water. Proceed with the water-change instructions to completion. The brine shrimp will still be alive when they enter the fish tank (but probably not for long).
Removing the Fish
To get the fish out of the chamber, first siphon the water to within an inch or two of the bottom of the chamber.
You could do this while the chamber is still sealed, perhaps at the beginning of the operation that finally brings the chamber to the surface pressure, by adding air to the chamber via the green port in the usual fashion while removing water from the red port in the same way you use for making a water change.
Or, after they are at surface pressure with the lid off, you could just syphon out the water with some sort of hose.
Don’t take too much water. You want just enough water to keep your fish afloat. Then use a fine mesh net which has been attached to a 3-ft handle. Don’t try to just reach into the chamber with a short handled net; you won’t` see what you’re doing.
Decompression Schedules
So how long should you decompress your fish? I make a decompression stop every ten feet (although sometimes I skip the first stop). For fish caught deeper than 100′, I start at one hour per stop until I get them to 50′. Then I go two hours per stop until I get to 20′. There I stop four hours, and at 10′ I stop six hours.
For sensitive fish like Blackcap Basslets (Gramma melacara), I will (instead of the 10′ stop) make a stop at 12′ for six hours and another at 6′ for eight hours. The last 20′ are the most crucial. For fish caught shallower than 100′, I just go an hour per stop all the way up.
Again, watch the fish every stop, especially when you reach 20′. You might need to stay longer on those last two stops. Now if one of my scheduled stops should end after say 11:00 p.m., I frequently prolong it until around 7:30 a.m. It doesn’t hurt the fish, and it does make my trip more enjoyable (you might sleep better if you bubble the fish first). You can’t make up any extra time spent on one stop by cutting time on future stops, however.
I have invented other schemes, like the 10% rule, where you make all the stops for the same interval (say two hours), but each time drop the absolute pressure 10%. From a 110′ dive, your stops would be at 96, 83, 71, 60, 51 , 43, 35, 28, 22, 17, 12, 7, and 3 feet. And I have glanced at the Diving Decompression tables for clues. So far my experience has been mainly to raise the fish 10′ at a time and see how long it took for him to look comfortable.
Symptoms
The first signs of sickness are of course rapid breathing and swimming with a bow down attitude. More severe symptoms may include the inability to swim away from the surface, small bubbles under the skin, usually near the fins or around the eyes, and a bloated belly. To complicate matters, the fish don’t always show symptoms right away. A few of my fish looked okay when I got them out of the chamber, but the next morning had to be taken to 20 or 30 feet. And when they do show symptoms while in the chamber you may have to back up several stops before they recover. Not all fish need the same amount of time to decompress, either. As a rule of thumb, younger fish seem to handle it better than older fish. Invertebrates may not need decompressing at all.
In Conclusion
Well, that’s all there is to it. If you have any ideas for improvement, let me know below. I think you’ll find that this chamber is as good as you could want. One thing I’m interested in particularly, is refining the decompression times. Let me know how you do.

